Some people prefer the natural look of a wooden compost bin. Although most of the commercial compost bins you see these days are plastic, you do see some wooden compost bins now that are already made.

Here are two wooden composters that I like that you can buy.

This cedar bin has two large sections so that you can keep two compost piles going at once and compost large amounts of materials. It’s a great choice if you like to compost leaves, which take up a lot of space. Cedar is very durable, and it’s also a readily available wood that is eco friendly.

This spruce composter is made from FSC certified sustainable wood. It has a really nice look, and the wood has been heat treated for extra durability. The lid is nice, and the extra large spaces between slats allow good aeration.

But what if you want to build a wooden compost bin yourself? You still have a lot of options.

I really like this booklet that has a bunch of different plans for compost bins that you can build yourself. There are a lot of ideas for different styles of bins, and the instructions are clear.

You can also find plans online to build a wooden composter yourself, if you’re the handy type.

The University of Missouri Extension has free plans for several types of compost bins, including a cedar wooden compost bin.

Any other good sources for wooden composter plans out there that I might have missed?

When choosing a compost bin, you are typically faced with a few different options. For starters, there are multiple styles of composting bins. You may find yourself choosing from between any of the following options:

Tumbling Compost Bin

Photo found on Flickr.com courtesy of Tammy Leino.

Spinning a tumbling compost bin daily can often produce compost in as quickly as 21 days. These bins are also typically above ground, so they are resistant to attacks by pests and animals.

Stationary Compost Bin

Photo found on Flickr.com courtesy of Clean Air Gardening.

Stationary Compost Bins will typically sit in one area of the yard and can vary in size. However, they are excellent if you need to yield a large amount of compost, and are generally properly aerated. It can at times, take longer for materials to break down.

Worm Compost Bin (aka Vermicomposter)

Image found on Flickr.com courtesy of Colonel Mustard.

A worm compost bin is just what it sounds like – it makes use of worms to aid in the breakdown of organic material into compost. Waste is typically broken down quickly with these bins, and is great for producing compost tea – a liquid substance that occurs naturally when producing compost that is high in nutrients and really good for your garden.

Multi-Bin System

A multi – bin system is choice if you have a lot of composting to do, or desire do to composting continually over time. You can have different stages of compost in each bin, and in the end come out with a lot of compost for your lawn or garden.

Once you have spent some quality time looking at the different styles of compost bins, there might be some additional questions or considerations. For example:

How much compost do I need to create?

This all depends on your composting needs. For example, if you are going to be working constantly with a large surface area and are going to require large amounts of compost for your garden, then something such as a multi-bin system may be perfect for you.

What material will I be composting?

Obviously, there are certain things you shouldn’t compost (animal fat, for instance). However, if you are composting a lot of vegetables with some leaves and grass, then it may make sense to purchase a tumbling compost bin or a stationary compost bin – something with easy access from the kitchen in the backyard that can get regular use.

What is the space/surface area I am working with?

This is also an important question to ask, because it can basically determine the size of your bin. If you are working with a smaller surface area, then a large compost bin is not going to make sense.

Other points of interest

It is vital that no matter what the compost bin or style you feel is right for you, it is properly aerated and has a hole large enough for you to get your compost out of. In addition, your bin should be something that is convenient for you – something that you can get to and from easily, and that will be practical for all of your gardening needs. If possible, try and obtain a compost bin that will be above ground and resistant to rodents, so your compost can decompose quickly and efficiently.

Photo found on Flickr.com courtesy of Collin J.

Making a compost bin is easy – you just have to make sure that it is where rodents can’t get at it, and that it is in a location conveniently placed to where you can get at it frequently if need be. There are many different styles of compost bins you can build, including the following:

Photo courtesy of Jan Van Raay at Flickr.com.

Synthetic fertilizer is made from petroleum and it poses a triple threat to the environment. When oil is extracted, processed, and transported, it produces greenhouse gases. Synthetic fertilizer also is unstable and will release additional gasses as it breaks down. Finally, synthetic fertilizer washes away when it rains, contaminating rivers, lakes, and bays with nutrients that can cause algal blooms.

Instead of using synthetic fertilizer, you can improve the health of your garden with home made compost. There are plenty of ways to make earth friendly fertilizer by composting your food scraps, and doing so also cuts down on the amount of gas that the garbage truck burns. Instead of throwing valuable nutrients into the landfill, change your habits and save a few bucks too!

Compost can be made in several different ways. You can use a compost pile, compost trenches, a composter, or a worm bin. Each of these methods produces humus that can be used around the yard. Humus is well balanced soil that contains an ideal mix of nutrients, retains water better than depleted topsoil, and has a rich, healthy color. Humus is also gentle on young plants, because it’s easy for their roots to burrow through.

A compost pile is one of the oldest ways to make compost. Simply stack together branches, twigs, grass clippings, and kitchen scraps in a clearing in your yard. Every couple weeks, take a spade or pitchfork and stir the contents together. Fresh ingredients can be stacked on top of the pile, and finished compost will settle to the bottom.

Compost trenches offer similar results with lower maintenance. When you have a big pile of kitchen scraps, simply dig a deep hole in the ground and bury the organic waste. A 4-6 foot deep hole is about the right depth. Shallow trenches are also useful, but they can attract unwanted animals like possums, skunks, and rodents. Shallow trenches are also a bad idea in certain areas because they stink.

Enclosed composters give a great deal of control over compost and they offer protection from the weather as well as small animals. Compost bins are available in various styles. Tumbling models will aerate the compost for you, while stationary models require turning in the same way that compost piles do. Composting bins can accelerate the decomposition process because they offer insulation and they compress compost ingredients into a small space where the heat that bacteria produce will build up. Finally, when the compost is finished, enclosed composters make it easy to transport humus by rolling or pushing the bin to the spot where it’s needed.

Vermicomposting bins are a unique variation on compost bins. They use small animals such as worms or grubs to break compost down into soil. As the animals eat scraps, they will digest them into soil and use the energy to breed.

No matter which method you choose to produce compost, this natural fertilizer is a great alternative to chemical fertilizer. By composting organic waste, you can make your slice of the world a healthier, more natural place to live!

Photo courtesy of duckiemonster at Flickr.com.

Photo courtesy of maudieshah at Flickr.com.

Farming with worms is a simple way to turn food scraps into organic fertilizer. Worms are quick workers, and they don’t sleep. They work 24 hours a day, and don’t take any holidays. Worms breed faster than rabbits, plus their birth rate is boosted even further because there’s no need to kill them to harvest their work. As worms eat vegetable scraps and fruit rinds, they turn trash into soil. Their worm castings are rich in healthy bacteria, as well as worm cocoons that each contain 2-50 baby worms. Worm castings can be harvested simply by sifting the soil from a worm bin.

When composting with worms, you can use either a compost trench or a compost bin. Compost trenches are simply holes in the ground full of compost. These compost middens can be difficult to dig, especially if you make them deep enough to keep animals from burrowing into the trash. To control odor, compost trenches should be dug at least 6 feet into the ground. This is the perfect depth for Nightcrawler worms (which are also known as Common European Earthworms, Tiger Worms, or Angleworms). A hole that’s one-foot in diameter will hold about 5 gallons of compost, and a 12 ounce tub of earthworms will be able to process that compost in 1-2 months. A shallow trench can also be used within a fenced garden or any area protected from rats, badgers, and other scavengers. Dig the trench 6-8 inches deep, and then add Red Wiggler worms. These worms work close to the surface and will generally stick to the area that you’ve dug up for them, because the loose turned soil is easy to tunnel through.

Digging compost trenches is hard work, and compost bins are an easier alternative. Instead of digging a new hole every time you have compost, you can simply lift the lid and add compost to your vermicomposting bin. Worm farms will not only protect your worms from predators (such as birds and snakes) but they will also keep the worms from wandering away into your neighbor’s yard. Worm bins come in many different sizes and designs; you can make one yourself, or buy one and protect your thumbs from stray hammer blows.

When choosing a bin, the size you pick often depends on the number of people that live at your house. An average person produces about 2 square foot of organic waste per week, so your worm bin should have at least that much space per person living with you. Choose a bin with enough capacity to meet your peak needs, and maybe a little bit more. For example, if you have 2 people living in an apartment, an ideal size for a worm bin would be 4 or 5 square feet. If you often host relatives at your house for Thanksgiving dinner, there’s no need to count them towards your total, but if you have guests over for dinner every wednesday, you may want to get a slightly larger worm bin.

After you’ve picked out a worm bin, it’s important to put a biodegradeable lining into it. Worms don’t like the feel of plastic, wood, or metal against their skin, and extreme temperatures can stress them out. So, you should insulate your worm bin with shredded paper, strips of cardboard, peat moss, or coconut fiber. These materials will soak up water and help maintain a steady humidity level. They are also rich in carbon, while most food scraps have high levels of nitrogen. When worms need to snack on some carbon rich materials, they will nibble at the lining of the worm bin and choose a diet that meets their needs.

It’s important to add a thick layer of soil to your worm composting bin along with food scraps. Worms need soil in the same way that fish need water. They need it to ‘swim’ through, and it makes them feel comfortable. Soil will help buffer the acidity of any organic waste that you add, and it also provides a pathway for worms to burrow through. Soil also contains healthy organisms that will help the worms digest food scraps.

Photo courtesy of mdelemos at Flickr.com.

When composting, compost bins offer several advanatages over unrestrained compost piles. Composters are aesthetically superior, they offer protection against the elements, they prevent animals and invasive roots from stealing nutrients, and they make it easy to transport finished humus. Compost bins are also easier to work with than compost piles, so they save time and reduce back strain.

Compost bins are much nicer to look at than unorganized compost heaps. Scrap piles have a habit of losing their shape as the contents break down, and they often collapse to cover large areas with decomposing waste. Bins contain the scraps and provide both support and structure. This keeps the compost compressed, which helps retain heat and accelerates decomposition.

Compost bins also protect bacteria from temperature and humidity extremes. The walls of the composter offer insulation from the cold, and they also help transform sunlight into usable energy while blocking lethal UV rays. When it rains or snows, the lid of a compost bin keeps excess moisture from drowning the compost. Many compost bins are also designed to promote drainage of excess water. Excessive water can asphyxiate the bacteria that breakdown organic waste. When aerobic bacteria die off, smelly anaerobic bacteria take over and slow down the composting process.

Animals are often attracted by the smell of decomposing waste. The strudy walls of a compost bin will often keep scavengers like rats, birds, and racoons out of the compost. There are some compost bins that are even designed to keep bears away with airtight seals or strong, metal walls. When animals find compost piles, they often make a big mess and steal away the ingredients.

Plants can also affect compost piles. If there are trees or vines nearby that grow aggressively, their roots wil find the compost pile and siphon away valuable nutrients. Weeds can also deposit their seeds on open air compost piles, and those seeds will germinate when the soil is used later as a fertilizer. With a closed compost bin, roots and wind blown seeds have no way to reach the compost. If any seeds from the waste ingredients try to sprout inside the compost bin, they will die due to a lack of sunlight.

Compost bins and pails are easy to move around. This makes it easy to use the finished compost and transport it to wherever you need it. There’s no need to strain your back digging up finished waste or lifting shovelfuls of dirt into a wheel barrel. Instead, you can just push the composter over to your garden and pour out rich, fluffy soil.

Photo courtesy of Jan Van Raay at Flickr.com. More at http://www.otherthings.com/janvanraay/.